Ventilator power installing bathroom fan

I have not come across this view anywhere else and I don't see why it should be an issue but I would be interested in your opinion. Eugene, I think we're discussing ceiling exhaust vents; placing one directly over the shower is fine and probably increases the ease with which it picks up moisture. Naturally one would presume that the installation is electrically safe from touch etc. These models are UL listed for tub and shower enclosures. That fan should not be installed where temperatures exceed degF.

But there is no mention of NOT locating the fan where it is in fact most needed and most effective - over the moisture source. You are discussing a different piece of equipment, not a bath vent fan but a heat recovery ventilating fan. If you want to give us the brand and model we or you ought to be able to find the manufacturer's installation instructions to see what constraints apply. Thanks for your thoughts on this.

I have read as much as I could about ventilation before doing this install at home and no other source has made an issue about putting an exhaust valve over the shower area but I just wanted to get another opinion just in case I missed something.

Their installation manual has nothing in it specific to bathrooms. There are no electrical connections at all associated with the valves as the air handling unit does all the work. Thanks again for taking the time to respond. There are some installation restrictions that I quote here, none of which mentions a shower installation. But this feature may be important for your installation: The Renovent HR appliance can be equipped with an option pcb article code This add-on feature is of interest because of the moisture sensor function:.

Input V for a moisture sensor: When the moisture content in the dwelling increases, for in- stance when someone is taking a shower, this sensor automatically increases the ventilation quantity. Now I read that as rather clear that the manufacturer anticipates handling moisture generated by a shower. Some common sense about unit location to protect it from water, say from shower splashing, would of course be pertinent.

If you are considering the smaller Renovent you might want to review the features I've described with the manufacturer directly to see if they are needed for your installation. Tel: 01 — Email: info brinkclimatesystems. I don't think these features will be needed but I can always do it later if necessary.

In terms of space to access the unit this will not be a problem as it is going into a store room rather than the attic as the latter is little more than a crawl space. I put the exhaust valve in today more or less centered over the shower tray it turned out to be trickier than expected in part because for some unknown reason the ceiling there had two gypsum boards doubled up. A modern refrigerator operates at about one sone. Vent fans range from as low as 0.

You'll find both the CFM and sone ratings printed on the vent fan's box. Tip: Use foil duct tape; unlike fabric duct tape, it won't deteriorate over time. Tip: If the grille doesn't hold tight against the ceiling, spread apart its mounting wires to create more tension. Cookie banner We use cookies and other tracking technologies to improve your browsing experience on our site, show personalized content and targeted ads, analyze site traffic, and understand where our audiences come from.

By choosing I Accept , you consent to our use of cookies and other tracking technologies. How to Install a Bathroom Vent Fan. By Joseph Truini. Pinterest Email Pocket Flipboard.

For optimum performance, locate it between the shower and the toilet. Climb into the attic and clear away any insulation from around the hole.

Now use the reference hole to determine the exact position of the fan. Measure the vent fan housing. Try to position the vent fan directly between two joists near your reference hole.

Take into account any nearby pipes or other obstructions. Note the final position of the vent fan in relation to the reference hole. Use the reference hole as a landmark to transfer your measurements from the attic to the ceiling.

Use a layout square or framing square to draw the rectangular outline of the intake port onto the ceiling. When you're almost finished making the rectangular cutout, support the waste piece with one hand to keep it from falling and possibly taking some of the surrounding drywall or plaster ceiling with it.

Aim the elbow straight up and secure it to the port with foil duct tape. Remove the knockout hole on the side of the fan's housing and attach a cable connector.

Slide the four metal brackets into the tabs protruding from the sides of the vent fan. Set the vent fan down into place between the joists, centered on the ceiling hole. Take the flexible duct that comes with the wall cap kit and slip one end over the elbow attached to the vent fan. Secure it with foil duct tape. Feed the existing or new electrical cable through the connector, then tighten the connector screw to secure the cable.

The location should be between two wall studs and within 6 feet of the vent fan. Take a couple of reference measurements so that you can locate the spot from outside—from a nearby window, soffit, or other feature you can access from outdoors. Mark the hole location on the siding, using the reference measurements. Cut the duct hole through the house wall using a 4-inch hole saw. Grab the free end of the flexible exhaust duct and carefully stretch it to the outside wall.

Attach the duct end to the wall cap's connector duct with foil duct tape. From outside, slide the wall cap into the duct hole and push it tight against the house siding.