Norton 101 ignitor resistance

While the valves are very reliable, the igniters have become the most common parts failure on these systems. Each type operates at a particular amperage level, and is matched to the type gas valve it operates. Neither case is desirable or acceptable! Note: The bake ignitor is normally hidden under the oven floor, which is easily pulled up and removed.

There's usually a steel 'flame spreader' on top of the burner, which is also removed to access the bake ignitor. In ovens with an exposed broil ignitor up on the oven ceiling , it's possible to confuse the two and replace the wrong one.

Watch a clock or stopwatch. And this is the best way for you to diagnose your ignition system! Still much cheaper than a new range.

You can use an ohmmeter to test for continuity if no cracks are visible. Just be sure to power the range down. At the end of the igniter warm-up period, the gas valve main opens.

The igniter will remain on for a specific amount of time seconds depending on the specific ignition module being used. When main burner ignition occurs, the flame is sensed by the igniter local sense or by a remote sensor remote sense. With the main burner flame established, the igniter is turned off 12 V is shut off to the igniter.

Note: The burner flame must be detected within the timed trial for ignition. If no flame is detected, the gas main valve is de-energized, shutting off the gas flow. The system may go into lockout or, if it has a retry model, it will retry the number of times allocated.

If 24 V does not check at the transformer, also check other controls in the circuit from transformer to module or integrated control. If you have 24 V or V to the module or integrated control, and no or 24 V out of the module or integrated control, the module or control is faulty. Check the amp draw of the igniter; amperage should not exceed 4. Do a visual check of the igniter for signs of damage or cracks. The sleeving over the wire should be examined for chafing, burned portions, or cuts in the wire.

Look for hot spots on the igniter. Observe the igniter during heat up. If a bright, white line across one of the igniter legs is detected, a crack may exist that could cause premature failure. Allow the igniter to cool and perform a resistance test. Replace the igniter if you see these cracks. There are several possible causes for repeated igniter failures. One of the causes could be high supply voltage. A hot surface igniter can burn out at approximately V.

Even voltages in excess of V may reduce igniter life. If high voltage is present, the power company should be requested to lower the power. Other causes for igniter failure include drywall dust, fiber glass insulation, sealants, or other contaminants that may accumulate on the igniter. In some cases, condensate dripping on the igniter causes it to fail. Furnace or boiler short cycling, delayed ignition, or an overgassed condition also contribute to shortened igniter life.

If the RTR is not to specification for igniter Model , which is a sec warm-up time igniter of 45 to ohms, or Model , a sec warm-up time igniter of 40 to 75 ohms, then the silicone tip is damaged in some way and should be replaced.

When troubleshooting an appliance where the igniter is suspect, the RTR will be higher on a used igniter, but the resistance should be no more than double the original resistance at installation. A jumper from ground to the gas line should give a good ground. Of the several websites that I found, I wanted to let you know why I chose your business over some others. After reading, I have to say thank you so much for being so bold to share your testimony and the gospel!

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